Information on plant propagation by cuttings

Information on plant propagation by cuttings

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Plant propagation Published: October 13, 2011 Reprinted: Last edits:

General information

The method of propagation by stem cuttings is one of the most used by flower growers, due to the fact that a very large number of indoor plants can be propagated in this way. Different plants require different care: one for rooting is enough to be dipped in a jar of water; others need a fertile substrate, greenhouse conditions, plus treatment with growth hormones.

SEO Score - 32 A large number of houseplants propagated by cuttings are cut off the top of the shoot in the spring or summer. When propagating Ficus or Oleander, the woody part of the branch is cut off, and for Dracaena or Dieffenbachia, the trunk is cut off for reproduction at a distance of five centimeters from the leaves.

Preparing cuttings

The knife for cutting the cuttings should be clean and very sharp, and the cut itself is made directly under the knot at an angle of 45 degrees. You need to cut carefully so as not to damage the branch. Before transplanting succulents and cacti, cuttings must be dried before planting, because too much water accumulates in their leaves. When propagating a plant, herbaceous cuttings must be planted no deeper than 2 cm, and woody cuttings are not planted much deeper. Cuttings root much better and faster at high air humidity, so the container with the planted cuttings must be covered with glass or cellophane. Exceptions are Geranium, Fuchsia and fleshy and succulent plant species.

Places of plant cuts containing milky sap must be placed in warm water before planting and kept there until the sap ceases to stand out. After that, the place of the cut should be sprinkled with very fine charcoal (preferably crushed).

It is worth rooting cuttings using growth stimulants if the cutting was cut at an unfavorable season for reproduction, or cuttings of this kind of plants root poorly. A pot of soil is prepared, a recess is made in the ground with a stick or finger, then the stalk is dipped in a special powder, and then placed in a recess in the soil and pressed; at the end, cover the pot with glass or plastic. Please be patient as it can take quite a long time to root the cuttings.

Care of cuttings

The container with cuttings must be shaded from direct sunlight; glass or a bag must be wiped from the collected condensate, and the soil with cuttings should be regularly sprayed; you need to ventilate the container in the morning and in the evening. Cuttings that have rotted must be removed from the container. A decayed stalk can be saved if it has just begun to rot - you need to cut off the decayed part and again place it in water with activated carbon diluted in it. When the cuttings take root, they are transplanted into individual pots. The first few days, young plants need to be shaded from direct rays.

An example of propagation by cuttings of Adenium can be seen in the photographs.


  1. Indoor Plants Information

Sections: Houseplants

Petunia from cuttings

Cutting petunias for the winter. In the conditions of our climatic zone, petunia does not hibernate in the open field, and sometimes I really want to keep a favorite variety. To do this, in the middle of summer, you can root a stalk from the specimen you like. Such plants are easier to overwinter indoors than adult shrubs. This breeding method is especially good for terry varieties. Grown from seed, they tend to produce more simple flowers. And some ampelous varieties in our conditions do not set seeds at all. When propagated by cuttings, the color and doubleness of the flowers is completely preserved. Plants bloom much earlier.

Petunias take root easily. Cut off a stalk with two internodes from a flowering bush. We cut off the flowers and buds, Then, having "powdered" the tip of the cutting with a root, we plant it in a container (cups), which we put in the shade. After 2-3 weeks, the plants sprout roots.

With the onset of autumn cold weather, we bring petunias into the house. Ideal conditions for wintering are a cool, bright room with a temperature of + 14-16 degrees. The cooler it is in the room, the less light the plants need. But if there are no such conditions, the plants can be placed on the windowsill in the room. From mid-November, it is advisable to supplement the lighting. Turn on the lamp for 14 hours a day. Watering is moderate.

Once a month, feed the petunia with potash fertilizers. At the end of January, apply fertilizers containing nitrogen. To cause an active growth of the vegetative mass, we increase the additional illumination up to 16 hours a day. Plants obtained from rooted cuttings, and not from seeds, turn into full-fledged bushes much faster.

When the greens have grown enough, you can start grafting again. We cut it in the same way as in summer, only we put the cups not in the shade, but under a lamp (from it to plants 15-20 cm) for 16 hours a day. After cutting the cuttings, we feed the uterine bush with complex fertilizer, after a while fresh shoots are formed on it again. They can be cut back into cuttings.

Cuttings can be practiced already from November. With the autumn-winter rooting of cuttings, young plants bloom in March-April. Although, as a rule, flower growers are waiting for daylight hours to increase and start grafting in late winter - early spring. Uterine plants transferred to the room in late autumn and winter should be placed in a well-lit place with an air temperature of + 10-12 degrees. With insufficient illumination and a higher temperature, the shoots are stretched, and the cuttings taken from them root poorly. More than 20 cuttings can be cut from one large mother plant. Cuttings treated with a growth stimulator should not be buried more than 1.5 cm.

For cuttings, you need to take the middle parts of the shoots 6-8 cm long with two to four pairs of leaves. Make the lower cut oblique, directly under the knot, the upper one - straight, 1-1.5 cm above the knot. It is advisable to cut off the apical cuttings after the growth of the shoots has ceased. During this time, they take root better. These cuttings can be planted in pots or distribution boxes. Coarse sand or perlite is well suited for rooting. You can plant it in a container with a lower layer of sand, or you can immediately plant it in a nutrient mixture of equal parts of turf and humus.

In winter and spring, cuttings are kept at a temperature of + 15 degrees without shelter. After 20-30 days, they develop a good root system. At this time, it's time to start transplanting into larger pots. When new shoots reach 10-12 cm in length, trim them short. The cut tops can be used on cuttings. During rooting, cuttings should not be allowed to dry out. It should be sprayed several times a day, and during the day it should be shaded from direct sunlight.

Transplant the overgrown petunias again and carry out a second pruning so that flowers will already form on the new shoots. Cuttings rooted and transplanted into separate pots can be fed. Petunias respond very well to feeding with organic and mineral fertilizers, which are better to alternate.

Propagation of currants by layering

The method of propagation by layering is quite effective and has proven itself well among ordinary amateur gardeners. It can be divided into several subgroups: reproduction by horizontal layers, reproduction by arcuate layers, reproduction by vertical layers.

Propagation by horizontal layers

Fig 2. Reproduction of currants by horizontal layering

In early spring, around the mother bushes of currants, the soil is carefully cultivated and organic fertilizers are applied. Then, with the beginning of sap flow, long annual branches are laid in a ray-like manner around the bush along furrows three to four centimeters deep or into a hole six to eight centimeters deep near the bush and pinned, for example, with wooden hairpins (Fig. 2).

After a while, shoots will begin to develop from the buds of the spread-out branches. As soon as the latter reach 8-10 centimeters in height, they are spudded - covered with earth to a depth of about 5-6 centimeters along the entire length of the laid branch and watered.

After 10-15 days, they spud again with damp earth. In the spring-summer period, it is necessary to look after the layers — loosen the soil, remove weeds and water as needed, giving 8-10 buckets per bush, and then cover the soil with a layer of mulch.

Strong shoots develop on the hilled currant branches and roots are formed, which reach the necessary fibrillation by autumn. In the fall, when the leaves fall and the growth of the allotted shoots stops, they are cut off from the bush, dug out of the ground entirely and cut into pieces so that each part of the cut has one well-developed shoot and root system.

New seedlings are sorted and planted in school, where they grow into strong seedlings suitable for transplanting during the next growing season. This breeding method is called horizontal or Chinese layering.

Reproduction by arcuate layers

Figure 3. Reproduction of currant arcuate layering

When propagating currants, arcuate layering is used. With this method, annual branches in the spring at the beginning of bud opening are arched to the ground, the bend is lowered into a hole 15–20 centimeters deep, covered with damp earth, and the top of the branch is tied to a peg to give it a vertical position (Fig. 3). For better root formation in arcuate layering, it is recommended to make small notches (injuries) of bark and wood on the backfilled part of the branch. In the fall, the allotted branches of the bush near the bend are cut and the rooted parts are dug up. Saplings are planted for one year in a nursery for rearing. Arcuate layers are less draining, uterine bush.

Propagation by vertical layers

Fig. 4 Reproduction of currants by vertical layering

Currants are also propagated by vertical layering (Fig. 4). To do this, uterine bushes in early spring are cut off at the base at a height of 10 centimeters from the soil surface. Since spring, powerful shoots develop from dormant buds. When they reach 15-20 centimeters in length, they are piled up by 5-7 centimeters with loose, moist earth. Re-huddle 5 centimeters when the shoots grow another 10 centimeters. By the end of the growing season, young shoots will develop roots underground. In the fall, the uterine bushes are dismantled, the rooted branches are cut out and used as seedlings.
Currant seedlings obtained by any method of propagation, in terms of their growth and development, must meet the standard for planting material. They must be well developed, perfectly healthy, have a branched root system of at least 20 centimeters in length and at least two shoots 20 centimeters high.

In addition to currants, all types and varieties of gooseberries can also be propagated by the above methods, it takes root quite easily and gives new shoots.

Category: Houseplants

Pelargonium (or house geranium) is a trendy plant for all time. Easy to grow and propagate, it is suitable for any garden design.

Plant propagation by layering - video

Propagating plants by layering - or cloning - is one of the easy propagation methods in general. It is also good because in a short time you can get a sufficient number of ornamental plants you need.

Reproduction of plants by layering is permissible for almost every ornamental shrub and some flowers. Such shrubs have shown themselves well when propagated by layering: rhododendrons, clematis, roses, forsythia, lilac, spirea, viburnum and others like them. Of course, there may be different nuances for a particular type of plant, but the basic rules for many remain the same. Cloning can be done both right in the garden and at home with indoor plants.

Features of the propagation of hydrangea cuttings in spring

Gardeners consider this method to be more troublesome, but the most versatile and productive. It is applied to all kinds of amazing flower. Cuttings are especially indicated for panicle hydrangea. The technique allows obtaining a large number of new plants.

It is recommended to carry out the procedure before setting the buds. In addition to grafting, hydrangea is propagated by dividing the bush or by layering. But these options are less productive.

Soil transplant

The readiness of the cuttings for transplantation is evidenced by the appearance of a strong root system. When grafted in an aquatic environment, it can be observed with the naked eye. And in the case of germination in the substrate, the formation of roots can be judged by the appearance of new stems.

To prepare a soil suitable for zygocactus, it is necessary to mix the following components in equal proportions:

  • fertile garden land
  • sand
  • peat
  • decayed foliage.

We choose a pot for a Decembrist not very high, but always wide. On the bottom of the pot, be sure to put drainage in the form of pebbles of various sizes or expanded clay. And then we fill in the prepared soil. We place several shoots in a small hole in the center of the planting container.

Watch the video: Best natural rooting hormone for any cutting plants, Grow cutting plants faster in water


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